It had been a while since I last used it, so it needed re-adjusting of the zero position. In order to do this, I put a panel of Zaggometry adapters on the mill’s table and lowered the programming tool to a height of approximately 1mm above the chips. Then I used the mill’s positioning joystick to bring the programming tool directly above the first ATMega.
So far so good.
Then I lowered the tool further down until the tool’s pogo contacts touched the chip’s pins. I manually tried to start the programming procedure. The plan was to see if the flashing procedure worked, and if yes, to set the mill’s position display to (0,0,0). Well, the positioning seemed to be slightly off, so the flashing procedure reported an error right away.
And then the (two) mistake(s) happened: Instead of either moving the programming tool back up (and to recenter it further) or at least to disconnect the programming tool from my computer, I had a brilliant idea how to improve my controlling software for the PleasantMill. I quickly opened the development IDE and checked the source code. After 2 or 3 minutes, I figured that my idea wasn’t that brilliant after all. So I went back to set the zero point of the programming tool and moved the tool head on the mill upwards.
To my surprise, not only the toolhead moved away from the board, but also the ATMega.
Apparently, the power pin of the programming tool had shortened out to some ground pin when I lowered the tool on the chip. And leaving this all in place for a couple of minutes had produced enough heat to de-solder the chip (and melt parts of the programming tool):
I wondered, how much power was involved, so I checked the data sheet of my Macbook Air:
The USB3 port of my 11″ Macbook Air seems to be able to deliver 900mA. So my “automated desolder head” had a power out of
P = V x I = 5V x 0.9A = 4.5W
Obviously, this seems to be enough to reach the 300-350°C after 120 seconds. However its not easy to calculate this, right?
Interestingly (and luckily), all this didn’t damage any involved electronic. The Macbook Air, it’s USB port and also the USBtinyISP adapter still work. Only the (partly) melted programming connector was KIA (well, all the pogo pins still work, but I’m not sure if their alignment is still correct). In fact, after switching the programming connector to a spare one (I had laying around, fortunately), I was able to continue the flashing procedure.
Even more interestingly (and probably luckily), even the de-soldered ATMega survived the procedure. After soldering it back on the PCB, I was able to flash the firmware and it passed all tests afterwards.